European Music

What would you say if you were given the opportunity to watch a performance of a pipe organ in Berlin’s most profound architectural building? I was given this chance on a recent Sunday. I wandered in, out of the chilly gray morning cold that hovered around 5 degrees Celsius (or rather, just over 40 degrees Fahrenheit). On the inside of the concert hall, which was plastered on the outside with a gold-plated aluminum, the temperature returned the sensation to the hands. The hall was modeled after a nouveau version of an amphitheatre including separate decks orienting the gaze towards the central area of performance. I was reminded of walking into an enormous egg that was lying on its side. A number of wooden-panel sails hung from the ceiling in order to improve the acoustic effect.

The actual performance was quite impressive, not only because of the massive size of the pipes in the organ, but also due to the unconventional tune played by the aficionado. He continued to exercise the different pipes as though they were muscles, running them through a mixture of classical genres that reminded me of the night on bald mountain, to surprisingly atonal junctures that might have been played in Space Odyssey: 2001. He played for just over 90 minutes, and although I was surprised to be intrigued for so long, I gave myself a pat on the back and walked out afterwards.

The very next Sunday, I made my way with a few classmates over to the Berliner Dom, built of stone, in the downtown (Mitte) portion of Berlin. The building itself had outlasted a fire which had given the facade a new appearance, and although one might have thought it to be appalling, the construction which is consistently refurbishing blocks around Berlin had recently restored the gilded dome on top. The sun had set long before we entered, but we quietly made our way up the stairs as the songs were sung for advent.

Throughout the semester, I also did my research on which bands would be appearing in the city. As mentioned in a previous post, I happened to catch Animal Collective playing at a deactivated power plant in East Berlin, early in the semester. Soon afterwards I saw TV on the Radio play at a small venue in Kreuzberg. In December I saw Ratatat playing at a bar on the banks of the Spree River. This, I eventually came to realize, was a bit of an insular tactic. I was hiding myself from truly drinking in the music, the lifeblood of the Europeans. Now this is not to say that people in Europe cannot live without music - I am sure there are plenty that do. Nor do I claim that music can be judged objectively. But music is also one of those conversation-starting topics, like food or weather. The point I am trying to make is that you need to show interest in the boring oxygen that floats around, because if you were to just take it for granted then our world might be a very different place. Where the hell would you be if it wasn't for Beethoven? Lennon? Sting? Bono? (Insert favorite musician here).

On that 'note', I also caught up with a bit of the Russian opera. The name of the Musical escapes me, but I will be certain to look it up if you see me and ask me again. In Paris, there was a Techno Club really that really introduced me to an interesting electronic variety. In one of our classes, as we placed emphasis on the underground rock scene of Berlin in recent decades and the contemporary era, we spun a record as would a regular Disc Jockey. It was very fun. Out of the whole experience, I came away with a deeper understanding that the United States may hold dominion over my musical choices for the time being, but with the vast diversity of peoples around the world it is only natural that they would have their own tale to tell, and their own song to write.

"I used to live in a room full of mirrors; all I could see was me. I take my spirit and I crash my mirrors, now the whole world is here for me to see." ~ Jimi Hendrix

Fall Break

Before we headed out of Berlin for a couple of weeks, I received a visit from another good friend from back home in New Hampshire. This friend stayed at a hostel near Alexanderplatz during the few days spanning through 4 November, when many US students as well as a majority of Europeans celebrated a change in American political regime. Let us all hope that Obama and his administration can manage the enormous weight that will soon be placed upon their shoulders.

On Sunday 9 November, the rest of the IES students and I flew off to Paris.

In our course of studies, we found that Parisians have a great sense of pride, not only refusing to speak English (although the majority of them are taught in school), but viewing in themselves a version of the world which they hope to expand outwards. In other terms, they are setting a model for what they want to offer the rest of the world. I speak a little bit of French from middle-school and high school, so I found it somewhat easy to make my way around. I do not wish to say that this was a horribly high-brow society, that is not my intent. I believe, on the other hand, that this society does not preach the proper methods of justice through education. France established a great number of colonies in Africa, and some time ago officially invited all members from these nations to move back to the original country. While nations like Britain harvested natural resources and left the culture as it was originally, the French imposed their customs and culture, including language, in addition. Colonization into the 20th century, starved out many native cultures from their natural practices and forced them to rely on the French. This is exactly what I speak of when I refer to globalization. I suppose the people were friendly enough, but expected unusually high standards of propriety in public.

On a lighter note, we went for a boat tour, which was very enjoyable, however quite chilly.

The following day was the armistice holiday, and we took our free opportunity to visit Versailles. It was another sunny, chilly day, and our legs were beginning to grow tired. I realized how much better the experience might have been if we had been able to travel in the spring. Oh well. In the evening, we made our way over to the Eiffel Tower, which sparkled in bright lights for five minutes, every hour on the hour. The tower itself was in blue light, with golden stars, to represent the European Union. Our organized tour made a trip up to the very top, where I captured a photo. It was quite exhilarating, walking around a calm corner to be confronted by a wash of icy cold rain, as though we had just walked into a cloud -- which in fact, was very possible.

Later in the week, a smaller group of us headed over to the Louvre. No, I have not yet grown tired of museum visits. I found especially intriguing the Venus de Milo. I also made my way over to have a look at the inverted pyramid of I.M. Pei, as I know he worked on a couple of other interesting pieces in Berlin as well.

One of the last places we visited was the bar near the Moulin Rouge where the film 'Amelie' was shot. I have yet to see the movie, but I have heard mixed reviews on the quality.

On 14 November, our date of return, we heard news of an Air France strike, which held us up at the Charles de Gaulle airport for a few hours. I believe the pilots had been protesting against restrictions, forcing those at 60 to retire. I feared that my travel plans around central Europe, which had been organized since the end of September, may not even see a chance to begin. I was fully prepared to leave on the Deutsche Bahn railway towards Prague the next morning, but if we were not back in time all anticipation and preparation would have been a waste.

However, as we students were traveling in a group, we were given priority over others. We made our way back to Berlin via Munich, arriving later in the evening than expected, but everything else went according to plan.

Prague (Praha) was a city where my younger sister worked on an internship for just over a month earlier this summer. I knew that I had spent a few too many late hours out on the town in Paris, because I found myself congested on the warm train headed down through Brandenburg. I acknowledged that it would have been a great idea to rest up. All of a suddent I found welcoming me some of the more beautiful sights of the Czech coutryside, following the rails down past Dresden and into the east. In the city, I was careful to navigate my way around, wary that not everyone was very open to English-speaking tourists. I eventually found my hostel, the Czech Inn, which turned out very nice (as the first hostel in which I have ever stayed). It was here that I met a few other Americans from California. Later in the evening, I headed out with a couple of Australians to the Charles Bridge, near a club with 5 stories open -- playing different styles of music on each level. It was called Karlovy Lazne, and the entrance fee was about 200 Kc, unless I am mistaken.

The next day I slept in a little bit, then sprang awake to gave myself a guided tour around the old city. I led myself from the Powder Gate towards the Old-New Synagogue in the area of the Astrological Clock, across the same Charles Bridge and up the royal hill towards the Castle. I have to say that it was quite exciting, but I cannot profess myself to be any kind of master of Czech history, as I merely gave it a brief overview. I also had a look at an art exhibition with Alfons Mucha and Salvador Dali, which was quite impressive.

Vienna (Wien) was a beautiful destination where a friend from the staff had recommended a hostel to stay. I quickly met a couple of Austrians, who came from the Western part of the country and were spending a short week in the city. I must admit, if I had not met them, I probably would have been able to see more of the city. At least I caught up on a little bit of rest. But I was disappointed not to see the Belvedere, or many other popular attractions in the city. On the other hand, you might say that this was my destination to mingle with other young travelers, rather than exhaust myself sightseeing. We did see the Ringstrasse, and very near there, we stopped by an old celler out of which excellent food and wine was served. This location was called Zwolf Apostelkeller (Celler of the Twelve Apostles). You could easily walk past it, so it was a lucky find.

I also made a visit to a Van Gogh exhibition, showing his progress through life and sanity. Although I knew the Austrians also spoke German, it was such a different dialect that each time I went out and encountered a clerk for a transaction or a separate question, I found myself asking a second time, and having to hold back from calling attention to my English crutch.

Upon thinking about it now, I realize that the French only did what they had to do in order to preserve their way of life. This pride, I think, takes the form of a national morale boost so that the greater amount of shame is done away with.

Munich (München) was a very nice city to make as my last stop. I met a family friend named Eric Hanfstaengl, who spoke English very well. I drew a number of interesting connections between him and my immediate family back home, one example of which is Eric's love for American baseball. He sat me down and we would talk for a few hours about it, until I felt ready to head outside and throw a few tosses. It was too bad I didn't have my mitt. Unfortunately, I took a tumble and headed into the hospital, with a few stitches needed for my left eyebrow. It was a shame because I couldn't get out and enjoy as much of the city as I had initially hoped to, spending an evening in the krankenhaus. On the other hand, I was glad to be with a friend when the accident occurred, and in Munich, with a very advanced medical system.

I ended up feeling good enough to head out the next evening, with two of Eric's children, named Emil and Else. It was a very enjoyable occasion, and I hope to return back again some time in the near future. I feel like I created a strong bond with Eric, also serving as a bridge of communication between my family back in the states and the Hanfstaengl clan here in Deutschland. I felt like this was my time for me, and me alone. I took a walk through the falling snow along the Isar River, the first of the winter, and admired the emerald-green color of the water. I took my time to enjoy the food, provided by Eric and his partner Astrid, specimens from German culture and history. It wasn't so tough to depart on Sunday 23, but I want to think I left a small part of myself there.

"Knowledge is not simply another commodity. On the contrary. It increases by diffusion and grows by dispersion."

Daniel J. Boorstin

Halloween Weekend

This weekend was tremendous.

On Friday, I headed over to Kleistpark and met with a friend who declared that we should go to the IES party together as a 'zombie mob.' He and his girlfriend had actually put together a pumpkin pie from scratch -- and yes, it was delicious. In retrospect, I think I may really have scared a staff member (see image 1). But at last, we finally met a few of the American students from the ground floor who had been kept apart from us up until this point.

Prior to the meeting, I think I actually saw some trick-or-treaters. They don't call out the traditional "Trick-or-treat" as we are accustomed to, in the states, but rather, 'susses oder saures' (sweet or sour). And it's true, the halloween was really more of an American thing; just kids get into the holiday over here, for the purpose of candy.

Unlike our upstairs group, the students from downstairs have been able to attend courses inside Humboldt University. I asked about the restrictions, but apparently there are no clearly set boundaries aside from asking permission. I came to be confused, believing the blockade for the upstairs Metropolitan Berlin students to perhaps be organized by the program. And that didn't seem to make sense. Why not try to integrate us, while we're in Germany? We're already taking classes in English, making the German teachers go out of their way. I figured, why don't I break out of my little corner, and find my own way over to Humboldt?

Following the celebration, we headed out to Oranienburger Strasse. I met an individual in a tavern who came from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and who spoke with me very openly about the history in the region. After stuttering in broken German for some time, often using my hands to illustrate points or ask questions, I found myself more educated about the Balkans region.

On Saturday evening I headed over to Mexikoplatz to meet with a German friend for supper. She lives on Goethestrasse, which is located in a very pleasant neighbourhood. At this dinner were a few more German students, around my age, who studied in other countries. It was a very enlightening evening, and the food was excellent. However I must admit that I am somewhat disappointed with my conversational participation. Of course many of the questions were directed towards another student, who came from the UK (and was fluent in Russian, German, and I believe French as well). But I cannot use as my excuse the fact that my hunger reigned supreme, and so my mouth was preoccupied. My listening was very much in tune, and I picked up the unique dialects of interaction during supper.

After the meal ended, we slowly moved to the living room where we heard another great piano player set to work. I must be sure to keep in touch with these acquaintances from Germany, as old friends can introduce you to new ones.

This morning, I woke up early to a sunny, 8 degree celsius day (~45 fahrenheit). My wish was to make a journey over to East Berlin, and board a ship which would bring us around Berlin on the Spree, noting sights along the way. It turned out to be a chilly but sunny day, and it was a marvelous experience.

Soon after leaving the boat, I made my way down to Southwest Berlin where I had agreed with a fellow student earlier in the week to meet and play indoor soccer. After joining together, we found the Zehlendorf School where games are played on a weekly basis, and I was prepared to play. During the game, we called to each other in German -- truly enjoying the culture! I think that this was also the first real exercise I have gotten since I have been in Berlin, aside from long walks and short sprints between trains. It was terrific!

"Enthusiasm is everything. It must be taut and vibrating like a guitar string."

Pele

Mother Russia

Well now, where to begin? A great deal of events have taken place since my last entry. First of all, I should begin by saying a happy halloween to everyone out there. I would also like to make a note that the Zentralflugzeug Tempelhof (The architectural masterpiece built in the early Nazi era near downtown Berlin) officially closed yesterday. Tempelhof, as I mentioned in an earlier entry, was best known as the location where the 1948 Berlin Airlift occurred, representing the geographical border between ideoligies. I read an entry on BBC World about this, so if you feel inclined, use the link I have included at the top of this page and search for 'Tempelhof.'

The Day before our journey Eastward, I headed down to Potsdam to the Filmpark Babelsberg. This was the same studio where many notable films were shot such as Nosferatu, and The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari. It was very enjoyable, but I was restless, looking forward to my flight eastward the next day.

After we arrived in St. Petersburg on Sunday, our first embrace with culture shock was attempting to deal with the cyrillic alphabet. I had a great deal of trouble working my way around the streets, and most likely would not have found my way had it not been for the helpful assistance of our fluent guides. The shock in St. Petersburg was greater than I had felt in Berlin, because I had only been given a few phrases to review; I had not been studying the language for a number of semesters so that I would be able to carry on a steady conversation. In other words, I felt greatly weakened.

The city itself was founded upon a marsh, near the mouth of the Neva river opening into the Gulf of Finland. I found myself wondering for some time why a nation so large as Russia would create so large a city so far north -- without any stone or timber within miles! Apparently, it was a necessity for defense against the Swedes during their war, early in the 18th century. Surprisingly enough, the city itself is only about as old as New York, perhaps even newer.

Each morning we woke up and walked almost an hour to the Herzen University, located in the downtown portion of the city. My Urban Development professor was correct in saying that St Petersburg shows a jump in scale when compared with Berlin; everything seems so much larger. In addition to that, construction was everywhere. But I noticed that the equipment used to improve the infrastructure were not at all modern. They rather appeared quite broken down and dirty. The air quality of the city was also a bit poor in comparison with Berlin. I apologize for focusing on the negative aspects of the city, because other points were very intriguing, such as the Mariinsky Theatre, in which our group was able to see a performance of the Russian Ballet. Also, inside the Church of the Spilled Blood, I saw an incredibly intricate mosaic design that had taken local artists about 12 years to piece together.

Another interesting aspect of their contemporary culture is the shift from soviet lifestyle to more of a western society. We learned in classes that as McDonald's was introduced -- the epitome of Western restaurants -- waiting lines stretched around the block. Culture was in a drastic state of upheaval at the end of the soviet era, and eastern Russia hitched onto some partially successful corporations from nations to their West, hoping to improve their economy. The Russian Ruble did not treat the American Dollar in a very friendly manner, I can tell you that much.

When we flew back from St Petersburg to Berlin, I was very happy to feel a sense of familiarity come back to me. I am sure that if I had spent a longer time studying in St Petersburg, it would have more pleasant. I managed to decipher some of the cyrillic alphabet towards the end of our stay, finding certain cognates that fit in with the latin base. But Berlin has a much better developed public transportation system, a currency that is more friendly with my own, a language that I know better, and last but not least a more updated approach to technology and urban development.


"Money, like vodka, turns a person into an eccentric."
Anton Chekhov

Packing for Petrograd

I'm really not sure if I have warm enough clothing for St. Petersburg. Since I have been in Berlin, I have purchased a pair of gloves, and a belt. That's all. Maybe I should keep a look-out for warmer necessities... Sunday morning awaits, and I'll be flying to Russia. I can hardly believe myself when I say that, it's so fantastic.

The rest of my exams went by without too many hitches. I have yet to miss any classes whatsoever, so I hope that does something for me. But I need to put in a little more effort on my homework.

The beautiful trees with their falling leaves are losing them quite fast. It's autumn for certain, and the temperature clings around a steady average of 15 celsius. Over the past few days, it has been somewhat wet. The tap water here in Berlin, unlike many other places in Europe, is very pure, so I suppose that a rainy season can be expectable.

On Wednesday evening, I was invited to attend a musical presentation by Cornelie. There I was able to see the production of Romanian artists in their prime on a small stage in front of me. Among them was a kind acquaintance I had met at the dinner near Krumme Lanke, named Karina Sabac. She played the piano as part of a string quartet also including a violin, a viola, and a cello. They played along to music written by Gabriel Faure. I was amazed and felt so lucky to be present.

After the presentation, I made my way towards a nearby U-Bahn stop and met up with a group of friends who were set to watch the final presidential debate. Because Berlin is (I believe) six hours ahead of Eastern standard time, we had to stay up late to watch it on television. I know I could always watch the debate recorded onto Youtube or another internet broadcaster the next day, but I enjoy engaging with the logic as it is expressed, live. I forget exactly how the topic of conversation began, but we all started talking about what we collectively missed the most about our homes back in the States. It is an odd sensation, living here in Berlin. I don't mean the fact that it is the first city I have ever lived in, but rather, the fact that I am so far from the US. I find it quite strange, on the other hand, that if I were to run into another American wearing a Yankees cap on the street, he and I might strike up a lively conversation about American culture, reviewing pros and cons.

I'm not certain if I have felt much culture shock here in Germany. On that note, I did receive my absentee ballot in the mail yesterday. I filled it out and sent it off, hoping it might be able to get back to New Hampshire before 4 November.

Last night, after all of my exams were completed, I felt like part of a large weight had been removed from my shoulders. I'm sure the sensation is mutual with many who read this blog entry, in terms of a pressure release. In the evening, I met up with many of the same friends from the night before and helped to put together a potluck supper. It always does you well to eat with friends, for certain. And it does me well to practice my skills in the kitchen. Last night I prepared some steamed broccoli with an addition of roasted almonds, but I think I may have put too much balsamic vinaigrette on top. It was only a side dish, so no big deal.

In accordance with documents that have been given to me by the IES staff, St. Petersburg is willing to offer a number of different features, or tourist attractions. There is a chance we could be headed to see the Russian Ballet. This would be very interesting, but I wish we could spend more time around the island, near the salt water of the Neva River. I know I have probably said this before, but I really miss the ocean. That is one thing that going to school in New Hampshire really gave me, is a love for the white foam that follows the crashing waves.

"We are as near to heaven by sea as by land."

Humphrey Gilbert

Saturday Night, in East Berlin

I know this entry can't be too long, because I'm in the middle of my midterms, as of this morning. They are similar to finals, in terms of the fact that we don't have classes on the alternative sessions, but we should be using that time for review and study. Anyways, I'll surely come back to make a few revisions to this entry.

I really enjoyed the East Berlin presentation of the Indie experimental band, Animal Collective. I'm not saying that much had to do with the venue, Berghain, although the hollowed out and renovated power plant was quite impressive as well. I was a bit worried that my friend Samantha would not be able to make it into the show, because the agency had suffered a computer problem and could not deliver her ticket in a timely manner. Due to the fact that she brought proof of purchase, she was allowed entry. It was great, but I didn't want to spend the whole night out on the town afterwards, because I knew that just after noon the next day would be arriving my UNH friend who has been playing the role of au pair in Dusseldorf for a little over a month.

My UNH friend, named Kate, arrived at the main Hauptbahnhof station in central Berlin. She was really excited after more than 3 hours on the tracks, and I was surprised when she wanted me to lead her around on a brief walking tour. But I knew the way, after a few tours I had seen myself. So I made sure we had the proper direction, and we set off to see the Reichstag, the Gendarmenmarkt, along with a number of other interesting sights around Unter den Linden.

Being able to lead someone else through a city is a good enough signal that you are at last finding your way. Of course, tour guide books are heavily relied upon for any visitor staying for a short number of days, but for a semester or so, there can be no argument that it is necessary to gain a perspective of your cardinal directions. For me, I'm not certain what exactly I have been using as a landmark for navigation, because the TV-tower is often shifting. So too is the Spree River. I suppose I simply register in the back of my head which portion of Berlin I am standing in and where the nearest U-Bahn can be found. It's a learning experience, and I'm trying to take it for all that it is worth.

As Kate will be in Dusseldorf through the Spring, I wondered if I might come to visit and see the Rhein River and Cologne (Koln) some time close to the holidays. That trip would of course depend upon the success in the US economy, and let's not forget my ever-shrinking bank account.

Today's exams did not throw anything unexpected in our direction. But because they are worth a mere tenth of our final grade does not mean that I won't try as hard. As I don't have classes tomorrow, I will still be going in to Mitte for the purpose of studies.

I'll try to get in another post before I head off to St. Petersburg. I'll be flying over there on the 19th.


"Sometimes you have to play a long time to be able to play like yourself."
Miles Davis

Globalization

The weather here has been beautiful over the past few days, almost like a warm, late August in New England. I've managed to step into a few more grocery stores and pick up the right vegetables -- I hope -- that will keep me going healthy. A couple friends are talking about a weekend trip to Amsterdam during Halloween weekend, but I wonder if cutting so short a time frame would really be worth it. I should have a talk with my younger sister. On her brief study trip this past spring, she traveled to almost every city where I plan to go.

I also just bought a ticket to an independent musical performance at Berghain on Saturday night. If you follow Indie pop rock, look up Animal Collective. I'm pretty excited for the East-Berlin dance scene. Beforehand, I might spend the day heading around to a museum or two downtown. The Pergamon musem is doing an exhibit on the Babylon Myth, so I think I may check that out. As far as Sunday, I have a friend from UNH coming to visit for a few days' vacation. She is staying until the springtime, looking after a couple kids in Western Germany. I hope I know the rail system well enough to explain, or better yet, maybe her city of Dusseldorf has a system similar to that of Berlin.

Recounting my venture down to Krumme Lanke, I was recently offered to join in with the family for a night of symphony where another friendly acquaintance will be playing the piano. This will be happening next week, on Wednesday.

But wow, look what time it is! Midterms already. I can't believe they snuck up on us so quickly. For one thing, I am really going to have to keep every free second to myself this weekend. For another, I really should not be spending my nights out partying until late and then perpetuating the vicious cycle. I know that Berlin is a great place to go for vacation, yes, and I worked hard for a couple months this summer to make myself believe that hard work pays off. I can't pay for everything on my own so my folks are helping me out with that.

But I gained a sense of self-empowerment, enduring a stay-cation and working through a normal period when I regularly would have been at the beach with family.

Berlin is much better, I believe, for the creative individual. Of course educational background matters too, and that's what I'm working on as I speak.

I already mentioned some things I am missing out on, like my cousing giving birth to twins. Well, as it happens, another cousin has since moved from Providence RI into a house that is no more than a bike ride away from mine. This is also good news. So indeed is that coming from a third cousin, who recently announced plans of a happy engagement. I had nothing but smiles to show when I heard these reports via email.

A lot of what we have been talking about recently in our courses has to do with the effects of globalization. Sociology applies to us all, because the effects of living in a society apply to everyone living in an industrialized nation. I just want to acknowledge one positive outcome of globalization is that I'm very glad that we can all keep in touch. As the internet here steps up in usage (the bandwidth is a bit slower in Deutschland, by the way), other forms of media begin to lose their impact. One good example of a persistent old-fashioned medium is the post mail. I will be receiving my absentee ballot within the next week, by transatlantic post. I don't believe that process will be changing any time soon, so long as the US Government hopes to keep votes away from hackers. But other methods of contact, such as using the telephone, are already being absorbed by the computer. Does anyone else here use Skype? Then you know what I mean.

Returning through history to the German printing press, newspapers from around the world are emailed to Berlin (and presumably every other first-world metropolis) within minutes of their completion. To the business entrepeneur working at an investment firm in Berlin, this marketing tool serves a very important task.

However, to farmers and hunters like those I visited this past weekend in the suburbs, I would imagine the international newspapers might be little more than a distraction -- a hindrance, if you will, on seeing their own native culture. Outer cultural influences are pushing in, whether by media, through style, or through student tourists like myself. It is a little bit disconcerting, but I wonder if there is much that can be done to stop it.

Is globalization a part of human nature, given the technological innovations we have created? Or can it be controlled?


"It is also rarer to find happiness in a man surrounded by the miracles of technology than among people living in the desert of the jungle and who by the standards set by our society would be considered destitute and out of touch."
Thor Heyerdahl